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Old 05-08-2017, 10:19 AM   #11
Joey Lawrence
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Originally Posted by soofle616 View Post
you're past the point of frustration which means you are no longer capable of thinking clearly and approaching each problem in a systematic way. This is the moment when costly mistakes are made unless you take a step back.
QFT this was sheering off the oil fill cap for the rear dif.
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:29 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by soofle616 View Post
You're in vehicle sales so you should know better than to think there is ever any kind of return. My suggestion, all kidding aside, is to step away from it and get someone involved that can go through it with you. Most of what's on your list is (relatively) easy stuff. The fact that your bike is absurdly complicated makes those jobs time consuming but not difficult necessarily. Fix the things you KNOW to be wrong with it, then start diagnosing the skipping in 6th issue. It's unlikely, but possible, that by the time you're done with what you know needs to be worked on that the issue will have been dealt with. If you need help, you know how to reach me but you're past the point of frustration which means you are no longer capable of thinking clearly and approaching each problem in a systematic way. This is the moment when costly mistakes are made unless you take a step back.
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:35 AM   #13
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It's a Honda. Unless you have like 150,000 miles on it the valves are fine by default.. Lol
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Old 05-08-2017, 11:14 AM   #14
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If I could escape life to come help you with it, I would, but I'm tapped out on time A few take aways for future work on stuff:

- Use thread anti-seize where steel bolts go into aluminum parts (plug on rear shaft diff)
- Use a torque wrench (even a cheapy harbor freight special is good enough) when tightening bolts down
- When you install oil filters, 1/2 turn past initial contact is plenty, and put some fresh oil on the rubber o-ring.

Hope you can get some forward progress on this
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Old 05-08-2017, 11:19 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by soofle616 View Post
The fact that your bike is absurdly complicated makes those jobs time consuming but not difficult necessarily.
100x this. If you didn't live two rhode islands away from me I'd come over and fix it for you just to not have to see anymore facebook posts about it
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Old 05-08-2017, 05:25 PM   #16
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Just to add some levity to this...

Joe...the cock and balls on the copier was fucking hilarious haha. You get anyone with that?
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Old 05-09-2017, 04:31 PM   #17
mrl1300r
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[QUOTE=TIMMYDUCK;895597]
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I had to do my gen 1 Busa. Not

Joe will need a mechanic on this one , you volunteering ?
I can help out if needed.
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Old 05-09-2017, 04:59 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by csmutty View Post
Just to add some levity to this...

Joe...the cock and balls on the copier was fucking hilarious haha. You get anyone with that?
Fuck yah it was
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:13 PM   #19
01XJ
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My suggestion and what I did with the goldwing is to make yourself a large work area where you can strip all the body work off. Get rid of any ideas of riding it for a while. Order all your parts you'll need to get your maintenance done, figure out what if any specialty tools are needed, download or have the service manual available and then go to town when some members are free to help.
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Old 05-10-2017, 08:02 AM   #20
FasYankee
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Dude didn't we just do the brakes on that thing not too long ago?



Here's something to make you feel a little better Joe:

Day before yesterday I researched how to remove chrome from metal, came across this wiki-how site: http://m.wikihow.com/Remove-Chrome-Plating

So I opt to go the muriatic route, and here's the result:



http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ps1oqyilio.jpg

Lol, so last night I followed the directions, mixed the solution, ran some errands, came back and drained the bucket......turns out that muriatic acid has quite an appetite for cast objects......the core of the clamp was gone in places leaving only that copper coating behind......
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