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Old 05-10-2017, 09:33 AM   #21
soofle616
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ouch
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Old 05-10-2017, 11:17 AM   #22
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Not really a big deal......luckily they're parts from Jakes bike, and the intruder isn't exactly a hot bike. I found an entire front end for <$100 on eBay......I'm done with chemical stripping, I've never had a good experience/positive results. The only things that have ever worked reliably for me are mechanical stripping (angle grinder/glassbead/sandblast) and electrolisys, which I guess could be considered electrochemical but I digress.....it's usually the wrong ambient temperature, its messy, dangerous, not to mention the walks in the middle of the night through the woods to my neighbors Coi pond to discreetly dispose of all the hazardous waste is a little exhausting.
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Old 05-10-2017, 11:57 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by FasYankee View Post
Not really a big deal......luckily they're parts from Jakes bike, and the intruder isn't exactly a hot bike. I found an entire front end for <$100 on eBay......I'm done with chemical stripping, I've never had a good experience/positive results. The only things that have ever worked reliably for me are mechanical stripping (angle grinder/glassbead/sandblast) and electrolisys, which I guess could be considered electrochemical but I digress.....it's usually the wrong ambient temperature, its messy, dangerous, not to mention the walks in the middle of the night through the woods to my neighbors Coi pond to discreetly dispose of all the hazardous waste is a little exhausting.
Chemical stripping usually has some type of etch rate for metal. If you put it in the solution for a very short amount of time, it may not have disappeared. Muriatic acid will etch aluminum, castings will likely have a faster etch rate than a plate or forging based on the porous nature of a casting as it is.

You know how many engineers are on, you shoulda asked lol.
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Old 05-10-2017, 12:26 PM   #24
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Muriatic acid will etch aluminum, castings will likely have a faster etch rate than a plate or forging based on the porous nature of a casting as it is.

You know how many engineers are on, you shoulda asked lol.


Useless piece of information for the day: this is how we make semiconductor devices like accelerometers and stuff. You dope the silicon at different levels and "build up" masks and then etch the wafer in a chemical etching solutions. The etching chemical eats at the mask slower than the unmasked material and allows you to create intricate structures by repeating this process.

If it makes you feel any better. I lost a good set of petcocks on another bike to this same thing. Put phosphoric acid in my gas tank (much nicer than muratic) and left it for a few days. It was supposed to just make Iron (III) Phosphate but ended up etching the cast aluminum petcocks too and leaked all out onto the floor

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Old 05-10-2017, 02:37 PM   #25
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new tires done
replace clutch and brake levers done
bleed/ replace clutch fluid done probably badly
bleed/replace brake system fluid, But ABS and linked braked scared shitless
replace fork fluid also scared shitless
replace front brakes, 4 pads per caliper really scarred because if I fuck it up bike wont stop
re install top case rack can do
New spark plugs scared to do because all the bodywork has to come off and its finicky as fuck
clean and lube the air filter can do, but all the body work has to come off
3 seconds on the interweb says the brake bleed is nothing to be worried about. ABS plays no part, and the linked thing only affects the order you do things:

Sitting on the bike,the left front caliper has two bleeders. The bottom one is for the front brakes only.
Bleed the front right caliper first
Bleed front left caliper second using the LOWER bleeder.
Bleed the rear, using the BRAKE PEDAL and the FRONT LEFT Caliper TOP Bleeder
Bleed the rear at the rear caliper.

Why are you doing Pads if Daren is correct that they were done recently? also, this should be a 10 minutes job.
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Old 05-10-2017, 02:38 PM   #26
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sadly this summer is looking crap tactic. Got in a huge fight with the woman and she says I should fix it, as opposed to off loading it. talked to Mo and the cost to do all the other work is reasonable, but the big misnomer is the tranny.

I personally don't want to try and tackle this myself as, I don't have the time, skill, or desire. And I feel really bad about dragging someone into this with me, and god forbid something go horribly wrong that would really suck.
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Old 05-10-2017, 02:39 PM   #27
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My suggestion and what I did with the goldwing is to make yourself a large work area where you can strip all the body work off. Get rid of any ideas of riding it for a while. Order all your parts you'll need to get your maintenance done, figure out what if any specialty tools are needed, download or have the service manual available and then go to town when some members are free to help.
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Originally Posted by ITGbuDeev View Post
3 seconds on the interweb says the brake bleed is nothing to be worried about. ABS plays no part, and the linked thing only affects the order you do things:

Sitting on the bike,the left front caliper has two bleeders. The bottom one is for the front brakes only.
Bleed the front right caliper first
Bleed front left caliper second using the LOWER bleeder.
Bleed the rear, using the BRAKE PEDAL and the FRONT LEFT Caliper TOP Bleeder
Bleed the rear at the rear caliper.

Why are you doing Pads if Daren is correct that they were done recently? also, this should be a 10 minutes job.
when I did the tires last week, pads were getting low.
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Old 05-10-2017, 02:41 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Joey Lawrence View Post
sadly this summer is looking crap tactic. Got in a huge fight with the woman and she says I should fix it, as opposed to off loading it. talked to Mo and the cost to do all the other work is reasonable, but the big misnomer is the tranny.

I personally don't want to try and tackle this myself as, I don't have the time, skill, or desire. And I feel really bad about dragging someone into this with me, and god forbid something go horribly wrong that would really suck.
so far you are also the only person who thinks its the tranny. does it have any sort of ECU computer access? Take it to John, get it on the dyno and try to replicate. IF he can get access to the mapping, he can likely see if its a misfire or fuel shortage etc. May be a $100 injector instead of $1k in a rebuild.
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Old 05-10-2017, 02:44 PM   #29
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could do the john thing, but bodywork has to be pulled apart just to get access. Also when your in 6th you can feel the crunchiness through the bike,
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Old 05-10-2017, 02:48 PM   #30
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could do the john thing, but bodywork has to be pulled apart just to get access. Also when your in 6th you can feel the crunchiness through the bike,
No matter what you do at this point, the bodywork has to come off. You have to do that for spark plugs anyway. If that's something you can do, do it now, and then you can start troubleshooting.
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