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Old 09-22-2018, 06:15 PM   #21
ninja fruit
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Then why keep going to that well? It’s dry move along.
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Old 09-22-2018, 06:40 PM   #22
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Well who doesn't love spiting or throwing shit down a well hahahah

Now go get those dam fenders rolled already
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Old 09-29-2018, 11:16 AM   #23
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So coilovers? I think a set of adjustable coilovers will give me an improvement over stock handleing and road feel while letting me set the ride hight to something that will keep shit from rubbing and not have to modify the body work.

This is a much more expensive fix but is probably the correct/better way of addressing the issue.

I’ve swapped out the stock steering box for a later model Camaro one with a 13.5:1 ratio and man dose it steer and Handel better already. The rear end has an aftermarket sway bars and a couple extra leafs in back and feels good. It also has a later model rear end though I’m embarrassed to say I don’t know exactly what it is, I have documents for it somewhere. The front has later model spindles and breaks and it stops like a modern car. It also has a 700r4 tranny so highway driving is easy until I hit a control joint or sudden rise and fall in the pavement, then I get to have the pleasure of bottoming out everything.

Again this was an issue well before lowering it and it was way worse before. And holyshit bump steer was bad before the steering box change. Highway driving was white knuckle between the pogoing and bump steer. The pogoing is gone and so is the bump steer.

If I can get this front suspension set right I can move on to other things finally. The hotchkis shocks and springs just aren’t getting the job done and it’s just a waste to have everything else working so well. Before installing them the front was like a pogo stick but now it’s rediculously harsh and bottoms out just as bad as it did before.

So thoughts, opinions, ridicule?




Edit: I went back and looked at the car our resident Asian posted and it has QA1 coilovers all the way around. As I mentioned before it also has the exact same wheels (style and size) so my guess is it’s running the same size tires as the suggested sizes for them are pretty limited. It sits nice and I’m quessing works well. Guess that answers that. Spend the money and do it right. Thanks for posting that Matt. It helped a lot.











Now fuck off
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Old 09-29-2018, 05:59 PM   #24
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Is it really bottoming out/hitting bump stops or just rubbing tire?

Jack up a front corner and see how much contact there is. If the tire is just rubbing the inner rolled lip I would roll the fenders and be done with it.

Friend with a ‘65 Mustang was having same issue and we rolled the fenders. His issue was primarily in the back but solved it.

If you’re not happy with the overall ride quality, time for a spring and shock combo change.

Last edited by db79; 09-29-2018 at 06:01 PM..
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Old 09-29-2018, 07:26 PM   #25
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See the image in post #7

Aside from the tire damage the front spoiler hits. The exhaust bottomed put also but that’s another issue as the pipes aren’t tucked up very well.
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:06 PM   #26
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Jesus jumping fucking Christ on a motor bike. Just fucking text me and bring the fucking pos over and I’ll figure it out for you.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:13 AM   #27
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I have a fender roller in Danbury. I don't know if that car has steel or aluminum front fenders, but steel is much harder to work with. Not impossible, just more work. If it's just the outer lip can't you add slight negative camber to clear? Half a degree goes a long way sometimes for clearance with zero tire wear changes.

Though I guess your later posts describe more of a weak spring issue. Fender gap is pretty huge still, springs must be mushy to close that big of a gap.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:48 AM   #28
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Thanks jay. I have to think for a bit if I want to roll them or swap out for coilovers.

The springs were every mushy which is why I put new ones in but the new ones are too low. They are very stiff though. Ride quality is really rough but that’s what I get for using lowering springs. I feel lalala or the coilovers will be even harsher but more flexibility for ride hight. The photo of the wheel gap is a little deceiving. It gets much closer as you hit the apex of the fender opening. The gap is probably half an inch of that.

The fenders are steel and so is the wheel well liner they are bolted to. That probably adds more difficulty I’m guessing.

Anyway I’ll be in touch if I decide to roll them. Thanks again.
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Old 10-02-2018, 09:48 AM   #29
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You haven't listed the specs on your wheels and tires. Proper sizing will tuck without fender modification, and slightly larger/diff back spacing may require rolling fenders to avoid rubbing. Even larger would require extensive modifications.

Plenty of info on forums for what wheel/tire combos and suspensions people are running on f bodies without issue.

Guessing this is the first time having a low/lowered car?

There are things you become more conscious of; parking stops, transitions from parking lot to street, potholes, etc..
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Old 10-02-2018, 01:23 PM   #30
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They are 17x8 up front and 17x9 in back with 235/40 and 275/40 respectively. As for suggested sizing this is that optimum suggested size by hot rod publications and forums. Further more these are by design specifically set up for back spacing and size. The Year One Rally II wheel is a modern interpretation of the original rally wheel that came on the car design and sold by a company specializing in pontiacs.

I don’t know why I’m having trouble with this set up as everything is specifically designed for this car to work in conjunction with each other. It’s not though and I was simply looking to see what other might know that I don’t.


You’re correct this is my first time lowering a car so a lot of this is new to me. I’m think of putting back to stock hight at this rate. That would be fine but I wanted to explore options before giving up.

The only thing I can think of at this point is the front end geometry has somehow been altered. I have tried a few forum specific to first gen f bodies but their bigger cunts than you guys.
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