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rhy
12-03-2009, 06:27 PM
Alright, time for an update. I wanted to install a separate fusebox for stuff like power plugs, heated grips, possibly a Garmin hardwire. Since all the parts came in already, I've been fiddling for the last two days taking my time with the fuse box. Probably spent way more time that I should have, but it came out nice.

Bike, check. Tools, check. Fairings and plastics came off easy since I remembered everything from the the slider fiasco the other day. Lifting the tank a bit, I saw the stock wiring and decided to run my wires alongside.

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox01.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox02.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox03.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox04.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox05.jpg


Now for the best part. It's the FZ-1 from http://fuzeblocks.com. A bit pricy at $80 but nice as hell. It's tiny, pretty sturdy (check their website for crash pics) and has two internal buses. One is on a direct feed from the battery and the other one is controlled via a switched relay. For each device (you can plug 6), simply choose whether you want it always on or only when the ignition is on. Then you put a fuse in the appropriate spot.

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox06.jpg


Even though this thing is small, I had trouble finding a place for it. So I used a piece of play-doh with approximately the height of the fuse box and after some experimenting with the seat, I figured out that the only place under the seat that can fit the fuse box is already taken by the Power Commander. Bummer. So I decided to mount the fuse box upside down with some velcro under the seat. This way, it will sit just above the owner's manual and tool box, with enough clearance.

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox07.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox08.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox09.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox10.jpg


Next, wiring -- flexible heat-resistant tubing, some 16-gauge heat/water/oil resistant boat wire, inline fuse, heat-shrink ring connectors and some posi-locks. By the way, http://www.posi-products.com ... it's the shit. This stuff makes me not want to touch another connector again.

So I went with 3 sets of wires -- one for a set of cigarette lighters (5A should be plenty, or I can install a bigger fuse), one for hardwiring a Garmin and one for heated grips.

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox11.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox12.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox13.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox14.jpg


And back on the bike:

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox15.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox16.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox17.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox18.jpg


Done for the day, happy with the result! Bike's getting dusty, so a cleaning is in order :wub: then it's either HIDs or cigarette lighters.

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox19.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox20.jpg


Hope no one steals my fairings.

rhy
12-06-2009, 01:19 PM
Thanks all. I don't have a cover yet but may get one for the winter.

Here's the next "mod" -- took a fuse puller tool, chopped one end off, trimmed it, drilled out the hole on one side and was able to fit it into the fuse box. Not my original idea but oh well :twofinger:

I also installed HIDs the other night, pics incoming soon.

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/fusebox/f4i_fusebox21.jpg

rhy
12-18-2009, 11:46 AM
So here's a little HID write-up. I am happy with the result, went with a DDM dual HID kit at 4500K. Looks pretty good, similar to the stock HIDs on my car. The ballasts are very slim and were easy to hide in the fairings. They emit a bit of a buzzing noise while on (louder when warming up, then they quiet down a bit). This is not a problem, there's no way I would hear them with the engine on.

So.. starting clean:

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid01.jpg



This was the best place for the ballasts so they wouldn't be too visible. Since only half the ballast would cover the frame, using 2-sided sticky pads wasn't an option, so I decided to drill. 2 small holes and they were on super tight.

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid02.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid03.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid04.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid05.jpg



The DDM kit was easy to install, but I had to trim a plastic spacer. Since this is an universal H7 kit, some bikes may not even require this spacer, while others could use it without modification. On my bike, some cutting was required. Also, had to pull the power wires all the way out and connect them to the stock headlight plug.

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid06.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid07.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid08.jpg


After that point, the install was pretty straightforward. I had to figure out which terminal was positive. The bulb doesn't care but the HID kit does.

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid09.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid10.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid11.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid12.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid13.jpg



Finished product (ballasts are barely visible):

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid14.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid15.jpg



And some final shots. Considering that the bike was running PIAA's best bulb before (Xtreme White Plus), I like the end result. My camera's colors are slightly off -- the HIDs are whiter than in pictures (no blue tint) and the PIAA bulbs are a bit more yellow.


2 x PIAA:

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid16.jpg



HID low, PIAA high:

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid17.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid18.jpg



2 x HID:

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid19.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid20.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid21.jpg



HID bulbs fit perfectly:

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid22.jpg



Finally, a direct comparison -- HID low/PIAA high vs HID/HID low/high:

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid23.jpg

http://sheepable.com/media/f4i/hid/f4i_hid24.jpg

desmosoul
12-27-2009, 01:49 AM
Very nicely done and nice write-up!

Yeah I miss the HIDs, put 'em in both my 'priller and duc, now I'll prolly put them in my MV Agusta.

Ya just can't beat 'em for visibility.

Where did you get your kit from???

EDIT: Anyone want to split an H3 kit with me???

5TOEZ
12-27-2009, 09:24 AM
HOLY SHIT!......nice write up & good lookin bike too.
Love my dual HId's.....wouldn't leave home w/out em:D

weld
12-27-2009, 09:33 AM
EDIT: Anyone want to split an H3 kit with me???
don't know where rhy got his, but these are pretty good...
http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=product&id=105&parent=61

landlord
12-27-2009, 09:56 AM
awesome write up. you might be promoted to official write up guy soon!

mhenry600
12-27-2009, 09:56 AM
nice write up man. I've been putting off the HID's until I have a little more money and feel like doing it, but after seeing that, I want to go do it now. Except for I still don't have any money.

Mustang
12-27-2009, 10:28 AM
don't know where rhy got his, but these are pretty good...
http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=product&id=105&parent=61
It's only $25 for an HID kit for a bike?!

weld
12-27-2009, 10:51 AM
^yes, i have 55w 6000k in my ZX6R. no problems for one year so far. DDM gets pretty good reviews everywhere, but their customer service is meh.

desmosoul
12-27-2009, 01:46 PM
don't know where rhy got his, but these are pretty good...
http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=product&id=105&parent=61

Sweetness! Thks!

Nast
12-27-2009, 01:54 PM
Desmo if you are still up for splitting an H3 kit I will it just so happens that is exactly what I need.

Edit: Just saw that it is a single kit nevermind then looks like I know where to get it from :D

desmosoul
12-27-2009, 02:19 PM
I went with the 55W version of these DDMs to replace my H3 low-beams... I hope it doesn't melt the lamp housing on my F4!

ddmtuning
12-27-2009, 02:19 PM
^yes, i have 55w 6000k in my ZX6R. no problems for one year so far. DDM gets pretty good reviews everywhere, but their customer service is meh.

Hi,

I'm Jim Powell, the owner of DDM Tuning. We appreciate the write up done by the OP very much. We hope our kits are a great help to all riders.

I would like to hear more about our customer service. We have grown wildly over the past 2 years as we work very hard to drive prices as low as we possibly can for our customer base of motorsports enthusiasts. Sometimes that growth puts us behind the curve on having enough people, or the right people, in certain areas. I have heard these comments about customer service before and I have been working hard to get rid of some of the systemic problems and move some of the people around. We also have been doing a lot of work on writeups and training. I can't promise it corrects everything. But we are working hard for you.

Besides the recent push on installation writeups we have made some other noteworthy changes:

1. Installation of a Support Service software package that allows us to deal efficiently with service questions and returns to improve turnaround time.

2. Installation of live chat software to better serve you real time when you can't be on the phone with us.

3. Installation of a new mid-business level phone system that allows for departmental selection and departmental voicemail.

4. Establishment of a dedicated customer service group.

Previously, questions were answered by the first free employee who could pick up the phone. While there are 17 employees at DDM Tuning, they aren't all experts at everything and many weren't hired for their people skills. Sadly, we were growing so rapidly that people sometimes answered the phone who weren't equipped with the right knowledge or personality for customer service. We now have 2 full time and one part time customer service agents available. More will be coming. I'm building out more cubicle space right after the holidays and we'll add more staff.

Also, while our HID products will fit just about anything with wheels and a light switch, we don't have every employee "bike knowledgeable". Of particular frustration, there is no database of bike bulb types like there is for autos :(

Anyway, please give me some feedback on what we are and aren't doing right. I do intend to change things for the better every chance we get. If you don't want to air anything publicly, please send me a text message on my cell. My number is 619-885-6155. I RARELY answer the phone if I don't have you on caller ID already. But I do answer text messages and will talk to you directly once I have an idea what your questions are about and I can research your order or issue. Unfortunately, I get something north of 2000 emails per day and could be on the phone around the clock. So, I've got to throw out an anchor now and then. But text me if you wish, I will respond.

Ride safe and let me know how we can improve.

Jim Powell
DDM Tuning.

ddmtuning
12-27-2009, 02:24 PM
I went with the 55W version of these DDMs to replace my H3 low-beams... I hope it doesn't melt the lamp housing on my F4!

There is not that much increase in the heat generated in the bulb. There is an enormous increase in the light energy generated that strikes the reflector and lens of the lamp. Reflectors tend to remain as pristine as the day the bike was made. Lenses, not so much.

The light energy will tend to raise the lens temperature. Generally most modern lenses don't have a problem because they are made from polycarbonate that can take a lot of heat. This condition can be aggravated by dirty lenses and scratched pitted lenses. Especially if you leave the lights on a long time while not moving. So, just keep that lens cleaned and you shouldn't have any problem. If you put them in something that runs offroad and gets dirty or muddy, I'd recommend sticking with 35W or become a Martha Stewart cleaning fanatic.

Jim

desmosoul
12-27-2009, 02:25 PM
Hi,

I'm Jim Powell, the owner of DDM Tuning. We appreciate the write up done by the OP very much. We hope our kits are a great help to all riders.

I would like to hear more about our customer service. We have grown wildly over the past 2 years as we work very hard to drive prices as low as we possibly can for our customer base of motorsports enthusiasts. Sometimes that growth puts us behind the curve on having enough people, or the right people, in certain areas. I have heard these comments about customer service before and I have been working hard to get rid of some of the systemic problems and move some of the people around. We also have been doing a lot of work on writeups and training. I can't promise it corrects everything. But we are working hard for you.

Besides the recent push on installation writeups we have made some other noteworthy changes:

1. Installation of a Support Service software package that allows us to deal efficiently with service questions and returns to improve turnaround time.

2. Installation of live chat software to better serve you real time when you can't be on the phone with us.

3. Installation of a new mid-business level phone system that allows for departmental selection and departmental voicemail.

4. Establishment of a dedicated customer service group.

Previously, questions were answered by the first free employee who could pick up the phone. While there are 17 employees at DDM Tuning, they aren't all experts at everything and many weren't hired for their people skills. Sadly, we were growing so rapidly that people sometimes answered the phone who weren't equipped with the right knowledge or personality for customer service. We now have 2 full time and one part time customer service agents available. More will be coming. I'm building out more cubicle space right after the holidays and we'll add more staff.

Also, while our HID products will fit just about anything with wheels and a light switch, we don't have every employee "bike knowledgeable". Of particular frustration, there is no database of bike bulb types like there is for autos :(

Anyway, please give me some feedback on what we are and aren't doing right. I do intend to change things for the better every chance we get. If you don't want to air anything publicly, please send me a text message on my cell. My number is 619-885-6155. I RARELY answer the phone if I don't have you on caller ID already. But I do answer text messages and will talk to you directly once I have an idea what your questions are about and I can research your order or issue. Unfortunately, I get something north of 2000 emails per day and could be on the phone around the clock. So, I've got to throw out an anchor now and then. But text me if you wish, I will respond.

Ride safe and let me know how we can improve.

Jim Powell
DDM Tuning.

Thanks much for the informative post. I actually just used your online ordering system for the 55W H3 replacement bulb. I'll just say a few quick words about the ordering experience:

Your ordering system was quick and efficient. I especially like the link to paypal right from your ordering page- this made things especially easy.

I'm in LA, so I am guessing that I will receive the kit by the middle of next week. Once I have it installed, I'll post up again with pictures and a write-up on the installation process and my opinions about quality, etc.

Thanks again!

desmosoul
12-27-2009, 02:27 PM
There is not that much increase in the heat generated in the bulb. There is an enormous increase in the light energy generated that strikes the reflector and lens of the lamp. Reflectors tend to remain as pristine as the day the bike was made. Lenses, not so much.

The light energy will tend to raise the lens temperature. Generally most modern lenses don't have a problem because they are made from polycarbonate that can take a lot of heat. This condition can be aggravated by dirty lenses and scratched pitted lenses. Especially if you leave the lights on a long time while not moving. So, just keep that lens cleaned and you shouldn't have any problem. If you put them in something that runs offroad and gets dirty or muddy, I'd recommend sticking with 35W or become a Martha Stewart cleaning fanatic.

Jim

Great!! Thanks again for the information, Jim. I was surprised at the lack of info. on HID lamps in bikes... but this clears it up for me. Happy to give you guys my business!

ddmtuning
12-27-2009, 02:33 PM
I'm in LA, so I am guessing that I will receive the kit by the middle of next week.

We'll do our best. Since closing shop on Wednesday night we currently have approximately 1400 orders in the hopper from the long weekend. We have a capacity of approximately 500 orders/shipments per day. We ship oldest to newest but that varies a little by product type. We have some people that assemble and ship just BMW headlights, another group shipping bumpers and accessories and three people just pounding out HID kits. Generally, I'd say your order should ship Tue/Wed with the number of open orders. We will be working a LOT of overtime this week to get orders out as we will only be open till noon on the 31st.

The holiday volume and the three long weekends (Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year) are conspiring against us. But we will do the very best we can. Luckily we are 2 blocks from the UPS hub so we can ship right up till 8pm everynight as we have a UPS trailer assigned to us and we pack it till the last second and throw packages at it as it pulls away most nights :)

PS: I apologize for what might be considered spam by a non-sponsor of the forums. Its not my intention. I just like feedback on what we can improve.

Jim

Mustang
12-27-2009, 03:12 PM
Thanks for posting Jim. I've seen you post similar feedback/info on some Subaru forums - it's nice to see someone taking an interest in their company and soliciting feedback/criticism from the public and acting on it, rather than solely making excuses. I'll likely be ordering from you in the near future.

As an aside, you might want to PM Mr. Kurtz, dimab, or anyone else with "ADMIN" or "MODERATOR" under their username, just to let them know your intentions for posting on BoRn :thumbup:

rhy
12-27-2009, 11:00 PM
I did buy my kit from DDM Tuning. It's the dual H7 kit at 35W with 4500K bulbs:

http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=product&id=107&parent=61

The kit seems to be working well. For the price, I can't think of anything better that has slim ballasts. I had to make two calls to DDM Tuning prior to the install. Both times, customer service was great!

ddmtuning
12-28-2009, 11:46 AM
Thanks for posting Jim. I've seen you post similar feedback/info on some Subaru forums - it's nice to see someone taking an interest in their company and soliciting feedback/criticism from the public and acting on it, rather than solely making excuses. I'll likely be ordering from you in the near future.

As an aside, you might want to PM Mr. Kurtz, dimab, or anyone else with "ADMIN" or "MODERATOR" under their username, just to let them know your intentions for posting on BoRn :thumbup:

Thank you. We sponsor the Subaru forum you mentioned. While we aren't active on that forum we do recognize that we may need to post there from time to time to answer questions and its just not the right thing to do to sell (helping equals selling in the real world) on a forum without supporting it. I monitor almost all links to DDM from forums and analyze it for a week or two. If it looks like we will need to post here again, we will sponsor the forum if that's available. I'll probably look into that over the New Year break and contact the admins regarding rates. If the rates look right for the size and activity of the membership, I have no problem with sponsoring this forum.

Jim

scubasteve
12-28-2009, 11:51 AM
very nice write up - this will probably be something I do this year since I do a good amount of night riding.

Nast
12-28-2009, 12:03 PM
Nice write-up I just ordered a single H3 yesterday we will have to wait and see if I can make it work in the PIAA 004XT since the way the bulb is held in is a little diff.

inkman411
12-28-2009, 12:06 PM
Excellent write up Nate.I just ordered the dual kit with 35w/5000k dont want anything to melt on my old school bike:rolleyes: Also had to get the H4 with high/low (extra 20.00)seeing both my low's are on @ all times.

scubasteve
12-28-2009, 03:21 PM
for the record, I'll probably be doing DDM kits in both my bike and my truck at some point this year. they are good kits and i know several guys that have had good luck with them.

Glocker23
12-29-2009, 12:38 AM
Damn nice bike man. Those HIds came out slamming. Shit I may have to get you to wire up my next bike with those power supplies u go on their too. Nicely Done Can't wait to see her again in the spring on a ride

GotTheFeelin
12-30-2009, 10:34 AM
Hey when you guys are doing these projects let me know. I want to do mine as well and im rather tool and mechanically challenged but can follow really well. And bring beer or food.

scubasteve
12-30-2009, 10:46 AM
Sure dude - I'll be doing a bunch of work on my bike in the spring - sprockets, chain, HID's, PCIII, probably the header and midpipe... Should be fun, will have it all torn apart good lol...

TuffguyF4i
12-30-2009, 01:15 PM
I'm really surprised you drilled and tapped into the frame to mount a ballast! I never would drill anywhere on my main frame. I know, they're small holes, but it just doesn't seem like a good idea. I zip-tied mine to the bottom of my instrument cluster stay.

rhy
12-30-2009, 01:31 PM
I was initially hesitant to drill the frame, but that was the perfect location for the ballasts. The bottom of the instrument cluster was another option (there's a nice pocket there) but it wouldn't have much ventilation and I've read reports of overheating ballasts, didn't want to risk it.

Glocker23
12-30-2009, 10:22 PM
Mod day sounds like it is brewing.

thejimdaddy
12-30-2009, 10:46 PM
for the record, I'll probably be doing DDM kits in both my bike and my truck at some point this year. they are good kits and i know several guys that have had good luck with them.

:iws: i will be ordering pretty soon

desmosoul
12-30-2009, 11:54 PM
Mod day sounds like it is brewing.

Yep, you guys are welcome at my place in Bel-Air, CA anytime :twofinger:

desmosoul
01-01-2010, 12:12 PM
Well, my DDM kit came in this week.... wow that was fast!

I'll be doing the install over the weekend and will post up pics and instructions to this thread when ready.

A big thanks to Jim and the DDM staff for shipping so quickly!

Nast
01-01-2010, 12:42 PM
I ordered the H3 kit the same dayas you and mine shows as on back order awsome :(

It would have been nice to at least get an e-mail telling me it was on backorder

desmosoul
01-01-2010, 09:02 PM
I ordered the H3 kit the same dayas you and mine shows as on back order awsome :(

It would have been nice to at least get an e-mail telling me it was on backorder

Hmmm that's strange... although I got the H3 55W version... maybe you got the 35W kit?

It'd have to be a pretty big coincidence that I got the last one... but I'm sure they'll get it to you as soon as possible.

I'm about 75% done with the install on mine. First impression is that the kit is high quality. I've installed the el cheepo ebay style kits on my other two bikes and the DDM kit is noticeably nicer. The wires are larger gauge and the ballast is nice and slim with vent slots cut into it... very cool!

More to follow shortly...

Nast
01-02-2010, 11:19 AM
Nope I went with the H3 55W oh well at least the bike is down fr winter so it's no biggie.

Keep me posted I would love to know how well the H3 55W works from DDM

desmosoul
01-03-2010, 02:19 AM
As promised, my version of do-it-yourself HID... this time its an install of the DDM 55W 6000K HID bulb to replace an H3 low-beam on my MV Agusta F4-R 312.

I've attached 4 figures showing the step-by-step for the install.

Figure 1A shows everything that the kit comes with, straight out-of-the-box. As shown, I had to cut away the rubber spacer. According to the manual, this rubber gromet spacer can be pushed through the OEM rubber light housing for some bikes. However, mine didn't allow for it, so I CAREFULLY cut this away from the wires (don't cut the wires!). Also, unscrew the bulb plastic cover but be extra careful not to touch the bulb, as it will result in premature bulb failure. If you do touch it, use some windex and microfiber cloth to clean the bulb. Figure 1B shows the innards of my low-beam access panel, and you can see the (-) and (+) wires going to the OEM H3 bulb.

Figure 2A shows another view into the low-beam access panel, but this time I've removed the OEM H3 bulb and wired-in the (+) and (-) leads that will plug into the ballast/ignitor assembly. Note that the (+) lead is all that is shown connected to the recipient wire in the low-beam access panel; the (-) lead is also there, but you just can't see it. You can also see the new H3 HID bulb in place of the stock H3. Finally, in the lower left of the photo you can see the two connectors that join up to the ballast lead wire (which is shown coming off of the ballast/ignitor assembly in Figure 2B). Figure 2B also shows the slim ballast/ignitor box, which I had no choice but to mount on the right side of the bars near the cockpit using a black zip-tie. Also, don't forget to line any place where the ballast might touch the frame with the included 2-sided foam tape, don't want any nasty rub marks!

A look at Figure 3A will tell you why I had to mount the ballast near the cockpit- there's not any space under the fairings! Also, Figure 3B shows the resistor pack, which I've zip-tied to a wire bundle coming off of the left bar.

And for the final result... Figure 4A shows the stock high-beam yellowish glow vs. the new HID low-beam... rated at 55W and 6000K color temperature. As you can see, the light is actually close to pure white, because the 6000K temperature @ 55W looks like ~4500K @ standard 35W.

Needless to say I'm quite pleased with the result!

inkman411
01-04-2010, 06:06 AM
I ordered the H3 kit the same dayas you and mine shows as on back order awsome :(

It would have been nice to at least get an e-mail telling me it was on backorder

Same thing here i ordered the lights no email to confirm it was placed or statis of it.I sent them an email to see if everything was o.k but havent heard back from them yet.Seeing the time i placed the order with the holiday's i figure i'll give them a call today or tomorrow To see where my shit is.

Nast
01-04-2010, 07:43 AM
As promised, my version of do-it-yourself HID... this time its an install of the DDM 55W 6000K HID bulb to replace an H3 low-beam on my MV Agusta F4-R 312.

I've attached 4 figures showing the step-by-step for the install.

Figure 1A shows everything that the kit comes with, straight out-of-the-box. As shown, I had to cut away the rubber spacer. According to the manual, this rubber gromet spacer can be pushed through the OEM rubber light housing for some bikes. However, mine didn't allow for it, so I CAREFULLY cut this away from the wires (don't cut the wires!). Also, unscrew the bulb plastic cover but be extra careful not to touch the bulb, as it will result in premature bulb failure. If you do touch it, use some windex and microfiber cloth to clean the bulb. Figure 1B shows the innards of my low-beam access panel, and you can see the (-) and (+) wires going to the OEM H3 bulb.

Figure 2A shows another view into the low-beam access panel, but this time I've removed the OEM H3 bulb and wired-in the (+) and (-) leads that will plug into the ballast/ignitor assembly. Note that the (+) lead is all that is shown connected to the recipient wire in the low-beam access panel; the (-) lead is also there, but you just can't see it. You can also see the new H3 HID bulb in place of the stock H3. Finally, in the lower left of the photo you can see the two connectors that join up to the ballast lead wire (which is shown coming off of the ballast/ignitor assembly in Figure 2B). Figure 2B also shows the slim ballast/ignitor box, which I had no choice but to mount on the right side of the bars near the cockpit using a black zip-tie. Also, don't forget to line any place where the ballast might touch the frame with the included 2-sided foam tape, don't want any nasty rub marks!

A look at Figure 3A will tell you why I had to mount the ballast near the cockpit- there's not any space under the fairings! Also, Figure 3B shows the resistor pack, which I've zip-tied to a wire bundle coming off of the left bar.

And for the final result... Figure 4A shows the stock high-beam yellowish glow vs. the new HID low-beam... rated at 55W and 6000K color temperature. As you can see, the light is actually close to pure white, because the 6000K temperature @ 55W looks like ~4500K @ standard 35W.

Needless to say I'm quite pleased with the result!
Very nice I like how much more light it appears to put out I can't wait to get mine in and fit it up.

Same thing here i ordered the lights no email to confirm it was placed or statis of it.I sent them an email to see if everything was o.k but havent heard back from them yet.Seeing the time i placed the order with the holiday's i figure i'll give them a call today or tomorrow To see where my shit is.
If you log in to DDMTuning.com you should be able to check the status of your orders mine says backorder on there you would think however that it would trigger an automatic e-mail to the customer.

ccaarmerciill
01-15-2010, 09:21 PM
About to order a kit for my bike... Thanks for the write-up! I think I'm going to go with the 55W @ 6000K as Terrence said it'll be closest to pure white for 55W. I hope my old 2001 headlight housing can handle this. I just need to do something, I can't see crap at night.

weld
01-26-2010, 03:08 PM
this is a schematic i made recently as i'm planning on adding a button to turn on my HID low beam. i run 55W 6000k and it uses quite a bit of juice to startup, so i'd rather have it turned off while the bike is starting. i would suggest anyone using the 55W kits to run a relay as well. it will be safer and your bulb will actually shine brighter with direct power.

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9646/diagramw.jpg

this makes it so when the bike is turned on, the low beam does not turn on until you press the button. the lowbeams will then stay on until the bike is turned off. it's better than a simple on/off switch because you don't have to worry about turning the switch off every time.

if you wanted to run a relay without the button, just ignore the dual relays and switch and wire the stock headlight harness to 86 on the other relay on the right.

if i actually do this within the next few days i'll take pics of the setup.

desmosoul
02-02-2010, 12:04 AM
About to order a kit for my bike... Thanks for the write-up! I think I'm going to go with the 55W @ 6000K as Terrence said it'll be closest to pure white for 55W. I hope my old 2001 headlight housing can handle this. I just need to do something, I can't see crap at night.

It's a great kit. I've been using it for about a month now and no complaints at all. Very white, bright light, highly visible, you'll wonder how you went so long without it once its installed ;)

desmosoul
02-02-2010, 12:05 AM
this is a schematic i made recently as i'm planning on adding a button to turn on my HID low beam. i run 55W 6000k and it uses quite a bit of juice to startup, so i'd rather have it turned off while the bike is starting. i would suggest anyone using the 55W kits to run a relay as well. it will be safer and your bulb will actually shine brighter with direct power.

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9646/diagramw.jpg

this makes it so when the bike is turned on, the low beam does not turn on until you press the button. the lowbeams will then stay on until the bike is turned off. it's better than a simple on/off switch because you don't have to worry about turning the switch off every time.

if you wanted to run a relay without the button, just ignore the dual relays and switch and wire the stock headlight harness to 86 on the other relay on the right.

if i actually do this within the next few days i'll take pics of the setup.

So I guess the folks at MV already thought of this... my HID low beam does not come on until AFTER the bike has started. Way to go guys for working that one out; I was worried that it would be an issue.

ccaarmerciill
02-02-2010, 12:06 AM
I installed my HID's from DDM. I believe one of the bulbs was faulty. No matter which ballast, and wires I used (High/Low) the one bulb would flicker, then turn off on every start. The other one works flawlessly on either ballast/ power source. I am sending the bulb back to DDM tomorrow to be replaced... Hopefully it is the bulb, I cannot think of anything else that it could be...

OreoGaborio
02-07-2010, 12:23 PM
this is a schematic i made recently as i'm planning on adding a button to turn on my HID low beam. i run 55W 6000k and it uses quite a bit of juice to startup, so i'd rather have it turned off while the bike is starting. i would suggest anyone using the 55W kits to run a relay as well. it will be safer and your bulb will actually shine brighter with direct power.

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9646/diagramw.jpg

this makes it so when the bike is turned on, the low beam does not turn on until you press the button. the lowbeams will then stay on until the bike is turned off. it's better than a simple on/off switch because you don't have to worry about turning the switch off every time.

if you wanted to run a relay without the button, just ignore the dual relays and switch and wire the stock headlight harness to 86 on the other relay on the right.

if i actually do this within the next few days i'll take pics of the setup.

Holy complex.... I REALLY friggin like that idea & would love to do that, but I'm not nearly talented enough to re-create that without making a total rat's nest hack job.

CamaroJockey
02-08-2010, 09:31 AM
Holy complex.... I REALLY friggin like that idea & would love to do that, but I'm not nearly talented enough to re-create that without making a total rat's nest hack job.


Recognizing that is half the battle...

weld
02-08-2010, 09:48 AM
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/1674/photo1fp.jpg

relay sockets would probably make things much neater, but i was using parts i had around. total cost for this would probably be $15 for the relays and $5-6 for the cable and connectors. i just made this last night, so when i get around to testing that it actually works (lol) i'll seal it up and make it nice and neat.

GbSv
03-22-2010, 08:32 PM
I just ordered dual H7 5000k HIDs From DDM tuning.

$17 to ship boooourns.

I have NO IDEA where I will hide my ballasts on the Sv.

The Magician
03-29-2010, 08:33 AM
I just ordered dual H7 5000k HIDs From DDM tuning.

$17 to ship boooourns.

I have NO IDEA where I will hide my ballasts on the Sv.

Look at my build thread... the ballasts are tiny. Took a little bit of figuring out because the wires arent very long, but you can do it.

GbSv
03-29-2010, 09:38 AM
Yeah I have them now and I was looking around and I still have NO idea where I will hide them. There's just no places on naked SV~! This is gonna be rough but the install seems like a BREEZE otherwise!

The Magician
03-29-2010, 03:26 PM
Yeah I have them now and I was looking around and I still have NO idea where I will hide them. There's just no places on naked SV~! This is gonna be rough but the install seems like a BREEZE otherwise!
did you see the pics? my bike IS naked lol. do you have the sv650s or do you hve the round headlight?

ccaarmerciill
03-29-2010, 05:24 PM
Got the replacement bulb awhile back... forgot to post. Definatly a good product... they are bright as hell! I also have Dual H7's 55W @ 5000k. Huge difference over stock lighting... DDM actually accidentally sent me two extra bulbs, inbetween the confusion of ordering an extra one, and getting the one fauly one returned. So I now have 3 spares... :D

GbSv
03-29-2010, 05:34 PM
did you see the pics? my bike IS naked lol. do you have the sv650s or do you hve the round headlight?

I didn't see your pics Rob.

I have an 00 SV 650 naked, with Buell Lightning XB12S headlights. Dual H7's

The Magician
03-30-2010, 09:56 AM
I didn't see your pics Rob.

I have an 00 SV 650 naked, with Buell Lightning XB12S headlights. Dual H7's
attach them to the back of the windscreen

GbSv
03-30-2010, 11:43 AM
attach them to the back of the windscreen

I randomly take the flyscreen off, I have it off currently. I checked out your pics, did you zip tie the ballasts to the forks?

I'm hoping to NOT have to 3m them to the back of the flyscreen, but If I have to, I have to. I love the flexibility of running with OR without it.

GbSv
03-30-2010, 06:15 PM
http://photos.napalm.net/clubsi/bikehid.jpg


Right is a gay HID LOOK H7 that I put in there when I got the bike running for the season and I realized that the bulb in there was blown. Thing was awful.

Look at the output difference :D

Both are being upgraded to 35w 5k.

I just managed to drain my brand new battery doing the install, fml.

preludeshalyn
03-30-2010, 06:47 PM
awesome... looks like the 35W are more than enough light i think i'll get some

GbSv
03-30-2010, 07:01 PM
Yeah it's pretty damned bright! But now my battery is dead. I should probably install a switch to de-activate the low beam until the bike is running.

My battery is dead though, I'd say because I left the key on for a solid hour :( FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK

rhy
03-30-2010, 07:12 PM
Hmm, can you push it, then ride around for an hour? Just an idea :p

GbSv
03-30-2010, 09:20 PM
Got everything finished.

Buell Flyscreen is back on the bike...


http://photos.napalm.net/clubsi/svhidlow.jpg

http://photos.napalm.net/clubsi/svhidhigh.jpg

senecak19
03-30-2010, 09:53 PM
Nice write up. In looking at the photos of your bike I can't help but wonder what Honda was thinking with the "brown" case cover. Why not a black one to match? :-)

http://www.bandofriders.net/forums/showthread.php?t=32603

ccaarmerciill
04-08-2010, 06:50 PM
So I think 55W is a bit overkill... at least for my bikes sake.

I am now having problems on initial start-up or while sitting in traffic. While idling sometimes the lights won't kick on, and I'll have to restart again, and the gauge cluster will occasionally (more often on first start-up) start to die out, then back on (off/on). If I click on the highbeams it'll usually make everything work momentairily, until that too seems to pull too much power.

So it's either have the stator re-wound to handle the power, or downgrade to 35W hoping that is manageable... :(

weld
04-09-2010, 10:54 AM
your bike's stock halogen lights should be 55W, so keeping a 55W HID running should be no problem.

i believe the DDM 55W ballasts draw up to 6 amps (soft-start) when first turned on. once warmed up, the amperage draw (1.5-3 amps) is generally lower than a traditional halogen bulb. really, this should be well within the specs of your stock wiring, unless you're starting up the bike with both high and low beams on at the same time, which is too much for your charging system. HIDs aren't recommended for high-beams unless they're bi-xenon anyway.

you could try installing an inline switch for the headlight power or swap the halogen back in to see if your problems go away.

ccaarmerciill
04-09-2010, 11:46 PM
I only start with low beam on, yet I think It might not be caused by the lights. It's getting progressively worse, and I do need to figure out a wiring issue with my right turn signal. Ever since the theft, the bikes been acting quirky in more ways than one. It's possible a short in the turn signal wire could be affecting the gauges, and other accessories... Correct?

Butt3rBall3r
07-09-2010, 09:56 PM
excellent write up bro

The Snowman
07-09-2010, 10:54 PM
Does anyone local to these types of installs? I'd love to do it, but completely lack the patience to do it.

preludeshalyn
07-11-2010, 07:37 AM
Does anyone local to these types of installs? I'd love to do it, but completely lack the patience to do it.

Seriously. It took me like 10 mins.

ccaarmerciill
07-12-2010, 12:25 AM
I only start with low beam on, yet I think It might not be caused by the lights. It's getting progressively worse, and I do need to figure out a wiring issue with my right turn signal. Ever since the theft, the bikes been acting quirky in more ways than one. It's possible a short in the turn signal wire could be affecting the gauges, and other accessories... Correct?

Forgot all about this, I should clear this up. 55W is awesome!

My bike had a loose wire to the battery, that was creating my electric problems... not the headlights.

Very good kit!

OnFiRe705
07-12-2010, 06:52 AM
I was gonna say...your problem sounded like a burnt pin or a bad ground.... to anybody who's having a problem like mentioned previously always check your connectors and grounds....more than likely they are the culprit. Good write up :)

weld
09-22-2010, 12:51 PM
i improved upon my previous setup. dropped one relay to save space. this is for dual low-beam HIDs in a bi-xenon setup, but can easily be adapted for a single by removing one of the relays.

http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/442/relays2.gif

my 'lap timer' button is the ON button, so that will turn on both low beams.
the reset button will be hidden in the fairings to turn it all off. sometimes HIDs aren't reliable to start.
the LED is to show the lights are not on. handy if you forget...