View Full Version : How To: Install Heated Grips (F4i)

02-19-2010, 03:11 PM
Winter made me lazy and I'm posting this now instead of back in December. Hopefully someone will still find it handy.

This tutorial assumes that there are power wires running to the front of the bike. For more details about that, see this:


So I started with a $30 heated grip kit from New Enough, as well as some $8 basic gel grips, which turned out to be awesome! I also had a set of Vortex bar ends laying around from when I purchased sliders, so here we go:


Next is the tool that made removing the old grips and installing the new ones a piece of cake. Not sure what I would have done without this:


Next few steps are pretty simple. Using the air compressor, the old grip pops right out. There will be gluey mess underneath, so make sure to clean it well. I used some contact cleaner. Don't use anything greasy like WD-40, you don't want your new grips to slide around.







Since the left handlebar is made of metal, I used some 3M tape for extra insulation. This prevents heat from escaping through the handlebar and also adds extra thickness. That extra thickness was necessary because I didn't want to mess with a cement-type grip glue and only used hairspray. Some people prefer 1" shrink tubing, but I didn't have any, so I used 3M tape. If you do the same, make sure the tape is heat-resistant (mine said something like 200 degrees F).



Same thing on the right side, except for the 3M tape. The plastic throttle tube provides plenty of insulation. Before installing the grips back on, make sure that the throttle can rotate freely without anything obstructing the wire. Even though the heating element has its own glue underneath, I like to use some extra tape on top, just in case.




To install the new grips, use a lot of hairspray on the inside of the grips, then slide them quickly while using the compressor to blow them out from the open end. This is where having 2 people makes things much easier.

Next, a slight problem. After installing the new bar ends, they fit too tightly to the bars (see the bulge in the grip). My solution was to cut some of the grip. It worked nicely, plus all the ugly pieces from the cutting were well hidden by the bar end.




Voila, all done!



The only part not covered by this tutorial is installing the Hi/Lo/Off switch and connecting the wires. That is quite straightforward if you already have wires for this. I'll be posting another tutorial shortly on power sockets, you can see the heated grip switch there.

So, I've been out a few times since December and the new grips are holding up great. Heat is awesome, there's no slippage, and the cheapo gel grips are very comfortable.

04-30-2010, 10:41 AM
Nice write, I think I may do this.

04-30-2010, 12:50 PM
FWIW I use WD-40/PB plaster/seadoo lube on my grips. For removal it makes them slide off the bar easier which means I don't need compressed air. For installation, once the stuff dries out some it gets really tacky so no need for grip glue. Just put new grips on the Mille this way and after letting it sit overnight the grips don't twist at all. I'm not sure how well this would work with the heating elements but works great for just your basic grip install.

05-03-2010, 04:51 AM
Try running the throttle side on low only to start out. Most of the time running them on high will melt the throttle tube since it is plastic. I had them on the busa and after running them a couple week's the throttle got sticky and I took them off. If I put them on again i'am only running the throttle side wired for low. It will throw enough heat on low and the left side will need the high setting to keep warm.

05-05-2010, 09:44 PM
Never had any problems on high with my SV or my Buell...probably close to 50 hrs run time on high on both bikes.