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View Full Version : How To: Install Woodcraft Frame Sliders



mungea
01-04-2012, 06:44 PM
Difficulty: Beginner
Time Needed: 30-45 min
Tools Needed: T55 Torx bit, 17mm wrench, ratchet, ratchet extension, Locktite, metric allen wrenches

Next are the frame sliders, something everyone should consider putting on their bikes. Just to clarify a couple things, these are frame sliders, not plastic sliders. Their purpose is to prevent the frame from hitting the ground during a tip over/crash and causing extensive damage. For fully faired bikes, they will help some to protect the plastics, but their true intent is to protect the frame at all costs.

One of the nice thing about Woodcraft sliders is that the puck is replacable. This means if you do have a crash, you can always just buy and install another puck instead of buying and installing a whole new frame slider and mount.

Pictured below are the 4 parts included in the kit. It is pretty obvious how they go together, but just in case it isnt clear: The black bolt goes through aluminum base, mounts to the bike, and then you install the puck with the remaining bolt onto the base
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af171/amunger86/Slide3.jpg

You will have to remove an actual engine bolt and will replace it with the bolt that is going through the aluminum base. Don't worry, undoing one engine bolt at a time will not cause your engine to fall out! :p

On the Speed Triple, it says use the forward two bolts. I used a ratchet, extension and T55 Torx bit to remove the bolts. On the back side (not pictured) is a 17mm nut. You will need to snake a wrench up through the exhaust from the bottom to prevent that nut from turning while loosening the engine bolt.
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af171/amunger86/Slide4.jpg

Then sliding the mounting bolt through the aluminum base and using the existing washer from the engine bolt, mount the aluminum base to the bike. Make sure to use Locktite as you dont want this vibrating loose. Also remember to use the 17mm wrench again on the back side to fully tighten that engine mount bolt.

Then (again using a little Locktite), attach the puck to the aluminum base. In the end, it should look something like this:
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af171/amunger86/Slide5.jpg

Frame sliders are easy to install and worth their weight in gold if you ever go down. I dont want to start a discussion about how "my bike caught the dirt and the frame slider caused it to flip over blah blah".....shit happens. I have frame sliders on all my bikes as a precautionary measure and would suggest everyone else does the same.

CatahoulaBuldog
01-06-2012, 04:50 PM
:thumbup:

c5quest
04-27-2012, 11:48 AM
Time Needed: 30-45 min???? You must be really new:p

krazy again
04-27-2012, 10:51 PM
:iws: Adam, luv ya bud. But 30-45 minutes? Does that include a beer or two? Lol! I put my (non-woodcraft) sliders on today in about 5 minutes.

Well, now that you got your sliders on there, then we can expect to see the triple at some track days now right? Aidan and Declan should both be coming with me and Tara to May and June up in NH. :)

mungea
04-28-2012, 08:12 AM
:iws: Adam, luv ya bud. But 30-45 minutes? Does that include a beer or two? Lol! I put my (non-woodcraft) sliders on today in about 5 minutes.

Well, now that you got your sliders on there, then we can expect to see the triple at some track days now right? Aidan and Declan should both be coming with me and Tara to May and June up in NH. :)

Honestly, probably not making it to the track this season. Very busy year coming up and all my vacation days are already spoken for :(

Kane
04-28-2012, 10:02 AM
Add two hours when fairings and cutting are involved. I just finished mine this morning.

yzedf
04-29-2012, 08:56 AM
Woodcraft is nice. Not real long and not a hollow tip.

slaphappytoys
09-25-2012, 10:52 PM
Spent more time looking for the torque setting on the net, but got them done in under 30 min.

iamthevoid
09-26-2012, 12:07 AM
theres no way i could do this, id probably need a week

drinkingmymilk
09-26-2012, 12:34 AM
theres no way i could do this, id probably need a week

If you have fairings.. which you do. This is the easiest, fastest, best way to do it. I used this method a month ago. Took all of 20 mins.

http://www.bandofriders.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11162

soofle616
09-26-2012, 09:47 AM
If you have fairings.. which you do. This is the easiest, fastest, best way to do it. I used this method a month ago. Took all of 20 mins.

http://www.bandofriders.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11162

:love: I take back some of the bad things I've said about you. You're still an asshole but even you admit to that :p

harry-ny
09-26-2012, 12:47 PM
Does anyone put a jack under their engine from causing any shift or drop in it from removing the bolts? I just do so as a precaution. One at a time probably wont' do it, but that's the method I use.

soofle616
09-26-2012, 01:02 PM
Nope, totally unnecessary. How do I know? because if the engine shifted after a bolt was removed, a jack would be necessary to put it back into place to get the bolt back in. If the bolt comes out and goes back in easily, nothing has moved.

On a less precise level, lets say the engine does shift, what does it matter? You're using the mounting tabs on the frame as your reference, those are going to move unless the bike does so your resulting holes will still be in the same place.

Going even LESS precise, lets say somehow the frame holes do move, they're not gonna move so much that your 1.5" hole is suddenly going to be so far out of position that it will matter. Unless you're cutting the hole with a couple thousandths' worth of clearance for the slider you're gonna have plenty of slop in the hole to compensate for any kind of error.

Joey Lawrence
09-26-2012, 02:19 PM
i read this whole post:


Nope, totally unnecessary. How do I know? because if the engine shifted after a bolt was removed, a jack would be necessary to put it back into place to get the bolt back in. If the bolt comes out and goes back in easily, nothing has moved.

On a less precise level, lets say the engine does shift, what does it matter? You're using the mounting tabs on the frame as your reference, those are going to move unless the bike does so your resulting holes will still be in the same place.

Going even LESS precise, lets say somehow the frame holes do move, they're not gonna move so much that your 1.5" hole is suddenly going to be so far out of position that it will matter. Unless you're cutting the hole with a couple thousandths' worth of clearance for the slider you're gonna have plenty of slop in the hole to compensate for any kind of error.

and found this gem:
you're gonna have plenty of slop in the hole

Speaking from experience?

:twofinger:

BMMCBR600RR
09-26-2012, 02:28 PM
i read this whole post:



and found this gem:

Speaking from experience?

:twofinger:

Thanks Joe. Didn't need that visual.