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Thread: How to: Rebuild SV Carburators

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    rocky hill, ct USA
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    8,954

    Default How to: Rebuild SV Carburators

    The SV carbs are very simple and easy to rebuild. Really the hardest part you will have is getting them off the bike. This is written from memory so I hope it is all there.

    You will need:
    Carb Cleaner
    Rags/shop towels (I use the heavy duty blue ones)
    Latex gloves
    #2 Phillips screwdriver
    Flat screwdriver
    Needle Nose Pliers
    Safety Glasses (no, really).
    a 6 point wrench, cant remember if its 8mm or 10mm

    When you take the carbs off the bike there will still be fuel in the float bowls. Put a towel down on your work surface to absorb the runoff.



    1) Remove the float bowl cover screws - #31 in the picture. Be sure to use the correct size phillips bit and apply firm pressure. These screws are very soft and can easily strip the heads out. They will "crack" and then turn freely. My advice is to replace these screws with some stainless allen heads that you can get at any home improvement store.
    If you dont listen to me and strip the head anyway, you need to use needle nose vice grips to get them out at this point.

    2) Remove the float pin #27 using the needle nose pliers and then remove the float #29. The float needle and the little retainer should all come out together. Be careful not to drop these as once free of the float needle housing it can easily slide off.

    3) Remove the float needle housing screw #30. Use the needle nose pliers to pull out the float needle housing #28. There is only a small lip to get a grip on with the pliers so be careful as it is brass and easily marred. DO NOT put the pliers on the inside of the housing where the float needle goes. It is held in with an o-ring and can be a little stubborn to get out. Work at it, it will come out. This screen at the bottom #26 and behind it is where you will find a lot of gelled fuel if that is your issue.

    4) Safety glasses on and use carb cleaner to get all that gunk out of there. In case you didnt know carbs are designed from the factory in such a way that using carb cleaner on them will hit you right in the eye, every time. Trust me on this. Be sure to clean the screen #26 which should still be attached to the bottom of the float needle housing.

    5) Using your flat screwdriver remove and clean the main jet #25

    6) while you have your flat scredriver in hand remove and clean the pilot jet #23

    7) Using the wrench remove and clean the main jet tube #24. Remember to be wearing those safety glasses when you decide that blasting carb cleaner in the hole is a good thing.

    8) Spray down the float bowl with carb cleaner to remove any varnish, dont forget to get the inside of the float bowl cover as well.

    9) reverse the process and reinstall everything. Remember that brass is a soft metal, do not over tighten.

    10) flip the carbs over and do the other side.

    Thats it. If you are feeling really adventurous you can check the needle and diaphram but honestly there is rarely anything that needs doing with these.

    Oh and the gas tank valve works off of vacuum so once you put it back together and try to start it, it will take about 30 seconds of cranking the motor to get fuel into the carbs. If you have a mighty-vac or brake bleeder you can attach it to the fuel valve prior to starting and let some fuel run beforehand.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    South-Central, MA
    Posts
    4,812

    Default

    Now do one on FCRs.

    CCS/LRRS Expert#39, retired | Tony's Track Days, Instructor #11, retired
    |

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Default

    Another example of how you are insane(ly) meticulous and skilled. Cue Minus!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    rocky hill, ct USA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CtRacer51 View Post
    Another example of how you are insane(ly) meticulous and skilled. Cue Minus!
    I had written this some time ago but it was buried in another post that didnt come up without extensive searching. I know Minus was looking for this info so I figured I should just make a how-to.

    Chuck, I will have a FCR one up the next time I get home as I have to change my main jets anyway.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Central Connecticut
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    Default

    Hello LINUS?
    Iv'e Out lived my expiration date...........

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    4,812

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    Quote Originally Posted by DucatiMichael View Post
    Chuck, I will have a FCR one up the next time I get home as I have to change my main jets anyway.
    After taking mine apart when I first got them to look at what the jet sizing was and where the needle clip was, I found that the FCRs are actually easier to work on.
    CCS/LRRS Expert#39, retired | Tony's Track Days, Instructor #11, retired
    |

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Default

    Very nice gesture for Linus and he dos t even pop in to say thanks

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Default


  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    central CT
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    He's stuck In Avon with his other bike. He'll see it sooner or later.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Newtown
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    Quote Originally Posted by zx6r View Post
    He's stuck In Avon with his other bike. He'll see it sooner or later.
    Spot on.

    It's been a busy few days.

    Michael you are awesome.
    Hi, my name is Mike and I have a problem with 650cc Suzukis...

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